It happened more than once this spring. It was clear, warm and sunny when you set out for the local plant sale. Optimism abounded.
You drove home with the car full of tomato and pepper plants, hydrangeas nodding their mop heads from the back seat, bags of dahlia and iris tubers and a chorus of clematis just waiting to climb the fence.
Then the wind came up, the rain came down – and so did the temperatures.
Admit it. You bought more plants than you can get into the ground over the weekend. And besides, it’s too early for a couple of those lovelies.
Step 1: Separate out the plants you know you can get into the ground in the next 10 days.
Step 2: Move the rest into bigger pots with enough extra soil to fill up the sides. This will prevent the plants-in-waiting from getting root bound. As you make the transfer, take a look at those roots – some may have already begun to wrap around inside the original pot. If so, separate and spread them out to discourage that twisting habit. It can be a killer.
Now you have a couple extra weeks to get your plants into the ground. Move them into a holding area that is close to their final destination, in order to get acclimatization under way. Water them well and consider sheltering them a little from the harshest vagaries of sun and wind.
Triage for vegetables
A variation of this sorting technique works especially well for tender vegetables and annuals – tomatoes, peppers, squash and cucumbers, for instance. In this case, however, keep them indoors, in a warm room or under grow lights until the soil temperature warms.
If you’ve brought home asparagus seedings, they can be planted early, while it’s still cool. You will have two possible directions from there, according to Virginia Extension Service. Either take them to their final growing site or to a temporary transplant bed. There are pros and cons to both.
Direct transplanting to the permanent site allows simple planting techniques and avoids disturbing plant growth with a second move. However, the seedlings will require more attention to weed control in the larger, permanent site
In a smaller transplant bed, the plants are closer together and weeds aren’t as big a problem. But you’ll have to dig up the one-year-old crowns next spring before growth resumes. It can be painstaking. Use a spading fork to dig 6 inches under the plants, gently loosen the soil and lift the crowns. Then carefully separate the intertwining roots and set the crowns in the permanent site.
The root of the matter
The best method of nurturing tomatoes’ root systems also addresses specific needs and preferences. The basic question is whether the tomato plants should go into the ground straight up and down, or laid sideways, trench-style. The possibilities are based on the fact that tomatoes can put out roots all along the stem.
Team Upright argues that the gardener can simply cut off the leaves “to the growth node” and plant it deep “to the neck,” thus eliminating any bend in the stem that might render the plant unstable. The roots settle into a deeper, more protected growth area. A raised bed gardener was able to plant tall seedlings deep enough (about a foot) to nurture more root development as well as keeping them more evenly moist.
Team Sideways says trench-style works well when there is not a great depth of good topsoil. Tomato plants’ roots extend over a wide area in their search for water and nutrients, which they would not find in deeper clay soil, and plant stability does not seem to suffer.
Finally, some bulbs planted in spring may also find themselves relegated to the shelf as other plants claim more immediate attention. They too require a bit of special handling in order to live long enough to be buried. Keep them dry and cool to prevent bulbs early sprouting, But not too cold: if you’re still having freezing nights in your area, don’t store them in an unheated garage or shed.
25 degrees of separation
Specifically, lilies must be stored below 45 degrees, or they will probably sprout before planting. If they do, treat the sprouts gingerly. If you break them off, your bulbs won’t bloom.
Dahlias and gladiolus can stand a bit more warmth: stored anywhere between 40 and about 62 degrees; the lower the better.
Canna lilies prefer to be stored around 50 degrees, and should never dry out.
Calla lilies and elephant ears like it even warmer, between 60 and 70 degrees.
As soon as you’re able, bring the bulbs outside and get them in the ground or in containers. If you find at this point that some of the bulbs have sprouted, simply be extra gentle to not damage or break off the sprout. It may be this bulb’s only chance at growth and producing a flower.
Buying more plants than you can get into the ground within a week need not be a financial disaster. Knowing how to sort your seedlings as well as your options can not only save you money but time as well.
